Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Cheers to the friends that became family and the city that became home.



These last two weeks have been insanely busy with lots of traveling around Italy, getting to know Verona, and learning about the health benefits of the Mediterranean Diet.  I'm writing from our train to Interlaken, Switzerland.  I've fallen in love with Italy and I am so sad to leave it but I know we won't be apart for too long;)

Two weekends ago, we went to Rome.  We were so excited to sightsee in the eternal city but actually found it to be extremely disappointing.  I know, I can't complain about being in Rome, but it wasn't all that it's cracked up to be.  It was really amazing to be in Rome during the first World Cup game against England.  We were on a pub crawl with a couple of Brits who got extremely heated when Italy beat them.  We were obviously on team Italy!  We also stayed at a really fun youth hostel called "The Yellow" that caters to college kids studying abroad.  We met people from England, Finland, Australia, Canada, and Holland in one bar in one night....it was pretty awesome!  The next day was pretty dissapointing because the Trevi fountain was closed(for 4 years), there was a 3 hour wait for the Colloseum, and the Vatican City line was even longer.  So that meant that we didn't really get the full Rome experience.  I've found that I'd much rather be doing something than just going to look at buildings and monuments.  Some sightseeing is necessary when you're studying abroad, but on this trip I've really learned that the things that stick out most are the crazy, spontaneous, and active things that we've done.   Sunday morning we woke up and decided that we wanted to do something different, outside of the city.  This led us to the beautiful little town of Orvieto.  It was so refreshing to get out of the big city and head to the mile-long town on the hill.  Orvieto literally is built on a hill.  In order to get up to the city, you have to take a train that goes up a very steep hill for about 5 minutes.  We were instructed to go to Caffe Barrique and get drinks and snacks from Paulo, so that was our first stop.  Then the rain came.  And I really didn't even mind, at all.  It was so peaceful sitting at this little cafe that all of our friends had been regulars at and just sit and talk and people watch while listening to the rain hit the awning.  Infinitely better than navigating the dirty, busy streets of Rome.  We spent the rest of the day getting lost in the beautiful streets of Orvieto and eating the best minestrone soup I've ever had at a little restaurant on the Corso.  I was so sad to leave Orvieto, but our last week in Verona was calling! We hopped on our train to Verona and learned that the train was going to split(yes, they can do that), and we were on the train that was headed for Austria.  This could have ended very badly if the train attendant wasn't nice enough to help us get onto the correct train car.  Disaster averted!  We finally got to the correct car and were lucky enough to share a cabin with the most smelly obnoxious drunk man who sprawled out in the cabin taking up 3 seats.  Caitlin was sitting on the edge of her seat and Carly was basically sitting on my lap.  Needless to say, we were elated to get back to sweet Verona.

Monday we came back to Verona and we had a pretty epic day of exploring.  We visited a Proschutto plant that has been in operation since 1919.  We were able to see the process of ageing the meat and seasoning it to perfection.  Nothing like seeing a bunch of aging pig legs on a Monday morning!  Afterwards, we went to an all organic farm that was located in Montagnana, which is a suberb of Verona.  This place was pretty incredible.  Everything from the honey, grains for the pasta, herbs, animals for meat, and fruits and veggies were grown there and used for making food and educating people on the importance and benefit of growing their own foods and eating locally.  Being able to see how passionate all of these people were about local organic foods was inspiring.   I can't wait to go back home and take all of the lessons that I've learned here and put them to use!  We were also able to visit an old palace that was designed by the architect Palladio.  This place was truly incredible, and the owners were able to give us a tour and tell us about the history of the palace. 

Tuesday we visited one of our cooking instructor's vineyards in a suberb of Verona. I was expecting a cute little family vineyard that made a small production of Amarone wine, but was completely wrong. We arrived at the Zyme vineyard to find that it was one of the most prestigious wineries in Verona.  The tour of the winey was absolutely incredible.  Zyme was being rennovated, but it was still the most beatuful buildings I've ever seen.  To give you an idea of how high end this place was, the rennovation cost over 10 million euros.  That's over 14 million US dollars.  It was absolutely incredible being able to explore this amazing place and we were the first people who were served at the restaurant that was a part of the winery!  Our instructor Rosa, who owned the vineyard stayed up all night setting up the tables and kitchen to make sure it was ready for us.  Rosa is the most happy woman I've ever encountered.  She is also extremely humble- she doesn't need the money to help out with this program but she was just excited to share her knowledge.  She doesn't speak english very well, but her smile says it all!  Rosa taught us how to use wine while cooking in the kitchen.  We had the most amazing Amarone risotto and pairs that were also cooked in Amarone wine, paired with what else but Amarone wine!  This may have been my favorite day of cooking class! 

One of the things on our Verona bucket list was to try a delicacy that is special to Verona- horse meat.  The 9 of us headed out on this culinary adventure and of course, it started pouring.  We had umbrellas but they were useless against the wind and rain!  This didn't stop us from making it to the retaurant and trying the famous horse meat of Verona.  I literally never thought that I would be able to try such outrageous foods, but I have really enjoyed branching out of my comfort zone and trying some very different things here- including but not limited to: seafood(even the kind with eyes), veal, cheese(just by itself), and now horse meat with polenta.  I've got to say it was really good.  It tasted a lot like a brisket!  The restaurant we went to was a popular place for locals to go to called Osteria Sottoriva.  The motto of the restaurant was "don't think, we have drinking to do." 

Wednesday, we stayed in town after class and climbed the 436(ish) steps up to the top of the bell tower in the middle of Piazza Erbe.  The view was an incredible panorama of the entire city- it was truly breathtaking!  Afterwards, we headed over to the house of Juliet to "touch her boob" for good luck.  I'm not kidding people do this!  So much so that the statue of Juliete is a different color on her right boob.  

A huge part of the Mediterranean diet is community, or conviviality.  This means exercising together, cooking together, and living together.  This worked perfectly with our program because all of us became so close over the month that we lived together!  I'm so lucky that I've gotten to know all of these amazing people over the last month.  Wednesday night we had a Convivality event with food, dancing, and of course, wine! 

Thursday night we went to our favorite Pizzeria that used to be a  church and spent as much time with eachother as possible before we all headed our separate ways!  Bonnie and I also got Foccacia with gelato aka breaded ice cream after dinner!  Good thing i'm running 30 miles a week!

Our last day together we went rafting down the Adige river with our extremely attractive Italian river rat tour guide, Max.  Max spoke pretty good english but used words like "funky" instead of "awesome."  We gave Max the nickname "master of the funk." 

In the evening, we had the closing ceremony for the program.  As always, it completely exceeded all expectations that I had.  We went to Ristorante 12 Apostoli, which was owned by Antonia's father.  This restaurant had been in the family for 3 generations and was really special because it was built on ancient roman ruins.   In the 1980's they were expanding the restaurant when the floor caved in and they discovered that the restaurant was build on ancient ruins.  Since then, they have made this area another room in the restaurant that is attached to the private wine cellar.  We arrived at the restaurant and had appetizers and champagne in the cellar then went to our seats at dinner.  The food was incredible, and the atmosphere was almost overwhelming because it was so fancy.  There was a harp player for our group to give you an idea of the type of place we were at.  It was incredible.  I sat next to one of our cooking instructors and the son of the owner of the Turri Olive Oil plant who happened to be an avid cyclist!  He spoke some English, which was nice because we were able to talk bikes!   After an amazing evening, it was time to say our goodbyes to everyone.  I'm amazed at how close I got with my 25 roommates! 

Saturday, we didn't want to sit in Verona all day so we took a quick day trip to Venice!  Venice really is incredible.  Through all the crowds and tourism it really does have a unique charm.  We got lost in the city on the water and worked our way through Murano glass shops and cute cafes.  We took a train back to Verona and Caitlin and I headed to the Opera!  We sat in the nosebleed section of the coliseum, but it was cool to be sitting where people used to watch gladiator fights!! Now off to Switzerland, and SPAIN to meet the Jenks family in Madrid!   It's a constant struggle for the wee fee(wifi), but i'll try to be better about blogging! 

There are SO many photos...but here are some of my favorites!  Cheers! 




















Sunday, June 8, 2014

Wine tasting in Tuscany, playing Juliet's Secretary, and Sunday Funday at Lake Garda


I can't believe I've already been here for two weeks!   This last week has been really busy and I definitely feel like I'm making Verona home.  This week, our excursion was at a shop in a town outside of Verona.  Tortellini Remelli is another family owned business that specializes in hand made tortellini.  Visiting this shop was such a cool experience because we were able to see each step in the process of making tortellini.  The best part of this day was obviously tasting the tortellini.  We tried different types of tortellini varying from classic spinach and ricotta to sweet potato and eggplant.  The pasta was so fresh and delicious that it's going to be near impossible to eat tortellini in the US from here on out!  After the excursion, we ventured into the quant little town of Borghetto. Borghetto was a tiny village that was built around a branch of the Adige river.  

Beautiful Borghetto


Tortellini 101

A highlight of my time in Verona so far has been volunteering for the "Club of Juliet."  We walked into the office on our first day thinking we would be responding to some cheesy love letters from tweens, and found that this was much more of a challenge than we anticipated.  The first letter that I opened came from a woman asking Juliet for advice on her failing marriage- she had been married 42 years.  Another letter came from a 21 year old who was heartbroken when her boyfriend came home from serving in the military as a harsh, empty, and changed man.  Some of the letters were very difficult to respond to, but it was our job to give these people responses that they were waiting for.  Cora, another volunteer urged us to be broad in our responses because some of these people take Juliet's advice very seriously.  Every time I have left the office, I leave with an appreciation for all of the things in my life that I love. 

Speaking of things that I love, wine has become one of them over the last couple weeks.  Carly, Cait and I decided that we'd go wine tasting in Tuscany for our second weekend in Italy.  We were only in Florence for a little over 24 hours, but we made the most out of all our time there!  The first day in Florence, we spent sightseeing and climbing up the steps of the Duomo to see all that Florence had to offer in every direction.  It was tough walking down the steps because we didn't want to leave that incredible view!  
View from the top
The next day, we booked a 6 hour tour with "Tuscan Wine Time" and had an amazing experience!  If you're traveling through Florence, you need to take this tour!  We were able to taste a wide range of Chianti wines that varied from tart to tannic, earthy to violet, tart to tobacco.  Chianti wines are medium red in color and tend to be extremely acidic.  We learned that wine tasting is an all encompassing process that literally utilizes all senses.  Visually, you can decide the acidity of a wine by the time that it takes for the 'tears' to fall down the glass after it is swirled.   Olfactory tests are used to determine acidity of the wine, and taste is the ultimate factor in wine tasting.  Our tour started at the Tuscan Wine School at 9am...we literally had wine for breakfast), and stopped at the Piazzale Michelangelo to admire the view over Florence.  After that we headed up the beautiful rolling hills of Tuscany to our wineries.  This made me slightly depressed that I didn't have my bike because there were cyclists everywhere.  Tuscany is literally a playground of cyclists.

View over Florence 


Barrels used for storing the wines

The symbol of true Chianti wines




We visited two wineries that produced the famous Chanti wine.  Chianti Classico is the most historical wine region in the world, and dates back to 1716.  The area is perfect for harvesting grapes because of the rolling hills that allow for successful vineyards.  The Tuscan region is very specific on what qualifies as a Chianti wine, and they have very specific parameters that the wine must meet in order to get labeled with the famous black rooster symbol of Chianti Classico Wine.  Chianti Classico wine must be made with at least 80% Sangiovese grapes and must be aged for at least 1 year.  The Reserve wines must be aged for at least 2 years and has to be almost 100% Sangiovese grapes.   Wine is a serious business in Italy.  Everything from harvesting time, fermenting time, time spent aging in the barrel, the type of wooden barrel, and the size of the barrel all contribute to the smell, color, acidity, and taste of the wine. 

After our fun couple days in Verona, Taylor, Cait, Carly, and I took a day trip to Lake Garda for some beach time.  Lake Garda has got to be one of my favorite places I've been so far.  There are bikes and boats everywhere, and everyone is so friendly!  I was able to get a quick open water swim in the lake, then we spent the rest of the day hanging out by the water.  Then came the fun part- public transportation back to Verona.  We waited for our bus for 30 minutes, so we began to think that the buses weren't running on Sundays.  This is when we made our first Italian friend- who is more of an angel, really.  We almost gave up and called for a very expensive cab back to Verona, but a very sweet Italian girl who spoke English told us that there was an accident on the freeway so the bus was running very late.  We sat with Elena on the bus and she told us all about her life in Verona and was curious as to where we came from.  She even offered to give us a ride home from the bus station so we didn't have to walk!  She was the sweetest girl and we were so incredibly lucky to meet her!  We're going to go see her favorite spots in Verona next week, and I can't wait! 


More random adventures..
-missing the bus with Cait(again) and having to walk down the dark alleyway solo...how every good horror movie starts
-figuring out that we're staying in a convent/religious convention center
-learning how to make Tortellini and fresh pasta from scratch
-noticing that Italian men are extremely aggressive- if they want to stare at you, they will. 
-trying grappa for the first time...it tastes like grape flavored everclear
-being busted for trying to hop off the bus without paying...Cait and I tried to play the dumb American card, and were unsuccessful. #internationaloutlaws
-running 9 miles then not being able to eat because every restaurant in a 2 mile radius was closed for Italian holiday...talk about hangry. 
-finding the best view of the city by climbing the stairs to the Austrian Fortress and seeing the orange, red, and yellow colors of Verona from above
-Climbing over 900 steps to climb the bell tower and the main steps of the Duomo in Florence


Some of my favorite dishes from class so far...

Gnocchi di formaggio
Pork Fillet with Mustard Seeds(yes, mustard seeds)
Cream of Zucchini soup with Quadrucci
Spinach rolled in fresh pasta 

Couldn't get it all in one picture!
After our run in with the law...



Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Bar hopping in Cinque Terre




Hiking from Vernazza to Monterossa 
We made it to La Spezia late on Friday night and were able to take a cab from a nice cab driver named Georgio who tried to add us on Facebook, which was a little weird.  Don't worry mom, we didn't give him our information!  We stayed at Hotel Corollo, which was bout 5 minutes from the train station and about a 15-minute walk under a sketchy bridge.  The hotel was nice except for the fact that Carly, Cait, and I had to squeeze onto a queen-sized bed!  It was like playing Jenga trying to fit all of us in semi-comfortably but we made do!  We're getting really good at this whole "winging it" thing.  The amazing breakfast(complete with eggs) at the hotel completely compensated for the teeny bed. 
 The views of Manarola 

Our first day in Cinque Terre was a blast!  It was a little rainy when we first arrived at Monterossa, but we were eager to see all the town had to offer!  It started to rain pretty hard so we hid out in a sports bar and grabbed a round of drinks.  Cait and I got margaritas, which were extremely strong... it actually tasted like a cup of tequila.  As we were planning what to do for our first day in this amazing place, we decided to bar hop between each of the 5 towns, exploring each town and getting a drink that represented the village at the best (and cheapest) bar we could find.  After Monterosso, we took the train to Vernazza and walked around the shops and walking paths.  On top of a hill, we found an adorable seafood restaurant on top of a cliff called Belforte Restaurant and bar.  This place was beautiful; it had 360-degree views of the town, cliffs, and the ocean.   We all split a liter of wine here and ended up staying for a couple of hours!  The cute chef even hit on me!  Our next stop was Corniglia, which was  a really small town that required you to trek up a steep staircase before you reached the town at the top.  This was a task seeing as it was stop 3 on Cinque Terre Bar golf, but we made it to the top, thank goodness!  This time, we stopped at a patio bar that overlooked the ocean, and was surrounded by beautiful flowers.  Carly ordered their specialty mojito that was freshly ground mint with a mortar and pestle...it was delicious! I ordered the draft IPA, which was best draft I've ever had.  After the trek back down the hills of Corniglia, we headed to Manarolla for a seafood dinner.  I honestly dislike seafood, a lot.  I don't like the fishy smell, taste, or texture.  I don't know why, but being in Cinque Terre made me crave any and all seafood.  Everywhere we went in Cinque Terre there were advertisements for fresh seafood, and you could tell it was a staple of the area.  We went to a seafood restaurant in the middle of Manarolla and ordered a risotto, muscle, and curry dish as well as a variety seafood platter to share.  After our long day of bar hopping along the coast, we were hungry and ready for some good white wine and fresh fish!  The food was incredible, and after polishing off our last bottle of wine, Caitlin dared me to eat the eye of the fish that was on our platter. 
FRESH seafood

I never like to turn down a challenge so my competitive nature set in and I actually ate a fish eye-- immediate regret.   Not worth it at all.  I think I have to go back to not liking seafood now.  Even though we hadn't visited the final island of Cinque Terre, Riomaggiore, we wanted to get back to our hotel before it got dark.  We met a girl from Georgia who was traveling alone on our train back to our hotel and she didn't know where to find her hotel, so we told her we'd walk her to her hotel before heading back to ours, which wasn't the best idea because we didn't really know where we were going, either.  It took a while, but we finally were able to show her where her hotel was, and we headed back to Hotel Corollo.  We woke up early and headed to La Spezia train station so we could do the famous hike from Vernazza to Monterosso.  The hike was really difficult to find, as it started in a hidden alleyway.  We never would have found it if we weren't directed by a friendly lady that we met at the "squatty potty," another term for a hole in the ground that Italians use for toilets.  Anyways, we were able to find the hike and begin the trek up hundreds of steps.  The hike offered an incredible panoramic view of Monterosso.  It felt like we were hiking through a tropical island because of the concentration of vegetation that we were surrounded by.  I tripped quite a few times because there was no way I was going to look at the ground when I had that view in front of me!  We arrived in Monterosso and grabbed a quick lunch from a little bar and hit the beach!  I picked up some cheap goggles from a little beach side shop and swam a mile along the coast.  This may have been the highlight of my day.  The water was so clear and I could see all of the fish swimming around and every time I took a breath I had a view of the beautiful city of Montorosso.  This was my first time swimming in the ocean and I felt a little defeated by the waves, but it was still such a cool experience to be able to swim since I haven't been able to in almost 2 weeks.. plus the view wasn't too shabby! After my swim,  Carly Caitlin and I went to a bar on the beach that played American music, and specialized in Beer-ritas.  The bartenders wore shirts that said "free refills on all daiquiris" and on the back, they said, "Just kidding!"  This was a total American tourist place but hey, if you can't beat em', join em'! After, Carly and I went stand up paddle boarding, which was a blast! However, if I'd offer any advice, I'd say don't pregame paddle boarding.  We decided that we couldn't come to Cinque Terre and only see 4 of the 5 "Terre’s," so we made one more stop at Riomaggiore before heading back to Verona. 
Riomaggiore had a lot to see, but unfortunately, we didn't leave enough time to spend more than 30 minutes there.  After this weekend, I feel like I won't be able to appreciate anything as being truly beautiful compared to Cinque Terre.  I probably sound so redundant saying that everything is beautiful, but impossible to give words to the places that we're seeing!   Cinque Terre is more amazing than any picture that can ever be posted, and everyone should visit at some point in their lives! 

We're currently headed back to good ol' Verona on a long 5 hour train ride back, but it's not so bad because if I look out my window all I see is rolling hills, vineyards, and rivers.  Tough commute;)  This man asked to charge his phone on my laptop and handed me his CD to listen to, it's really good!  If you like acoustic guitar, check out Rafou's CD 'Homeless' :)